The marquise cut is the most recognisable shape in jewellery, and one of the least well explained. You will hear that it lengthens the finger and that it comes from a tale of the royal court. That is partly true. What nobody tells you is that it has two specific weak points, and that knowing them completely changes the way you choose your ring. Here are both, plainly.

Where the marquise cut comes from

It is a charming story and you will read it everywhere. Louis XV is said to have ordered a stone cut in the shape of the lips of the Marquise de Pompadour. Hence the name.

Let us be honest: it is a legend. No eighteenth century source backs it up. It appears much later, most likely spun by the jewellery trade, which has rarely been able to resist a good story.

What is established is something else. The elongated, two pointed shape has existed for a long time, and the French term navette comes from its resemblance to a weaver's shuttle, the spindle shaped piece that passes back and forth across the loom. The name describes a tool, not a mouth.

The modern cut, on the other hand, dates from the twentieth century. It peaked in the 1970s and 1980s, then spent a long time out of fashion, and it has been making a comeback for a few years now.

How to recognise a marquise, and why it is also called a navette

You can spot a marquise in a second. It is elongated and, above all, it ends in two symmetrical points. It is the only diamond with two points.

Do not confuse it with its neighbours. The pear has just one point, and its other end is rounded. The oval has none. The heart has one point and a notch.

Technically, it is a modified brilliant. It usually has 58 facets, like the round brilliant, but spread over an elongated outline. This has a direct effect on how it behaves in the light, which we cover further down.

Marquise and navette mean exactly the same thing. The first term is the more common today, including in France. The second is still used by workshops.

To see how this shape compares with the others, read our overview of diamond shapes and cuts.

What the marquise cut does better than other shapes

Three advantages, all real and all measurable.

It looks bigger for the same weight. This is its main strength, and it is not cosmetic. An elongated stone spreads its mass across its surface rather than into its depth. At the same carat weight, a marquise shows a much larger visible surface than a round brilliant. You see more stone for the same weight, and so for a similar price.

It lengthens the hand. Worn along the finger, it visually stretches the line. The effect is clear on short or wide fingers. It is an optical illusion, but it works.

It looks like nothing else. The round brilliant accounts for the majority of engagement rings. A marquise is instantly recognisable, from a distance, without anyone having to come closer.

The bow tie effect, the flaw nobody talks about

Look at a marquise face on, in good light. You will often see a dark band running across the centre of the stone, shaped like a bow tie. In English it is called the bow tie effect. Almost no French website even names it.

It is not a flaw in the stone, it is a consequence of its geometry. On an elongated shape, the pavilion (the lower part of the stone) is shallow in the centre. Light that should reflect there escapes instead. At that spot, the stone reflects the shadow of whatever is looking at it, in other words your head. Hence the dark band.

All elongated cuts show it: the marquise, the oval, the pear. A round brilliant does not have it.

What varies is the intensity. A light bow tie creates contrast and is not a problem; some people even find it lively. A strong bow tie swallows a third of the stone and never goes away.

The practical consequence is simple, and it is our most useful advice on this shape: never buy a marquise from a spec sheet. The certificate does not mention the bow tie. You need to see the stone, or at least a faithful image taken in normal light, not in an overexposed studio.

Our diamond buying guide explains which criteria the certificate covers, and which it does not.

The two points, the real weak spot

Here is the second point, and it is the one that matters day to day.

Diamond is the hardest natural material there is, 10 on the Mohs scale. Hard does not mean unbreakable. A diamond resists scratches, not knocks. And a knock is concentrated where the material is thinnest.

On a marquise, the thinnest parts are the two points. That is where the stone chips. It does not happen often, but it is the only place where it really happens.

Three practical consequences.

V prongs are essential. A standard prong sits on a rounded edge. A point needs a V prong, which caps and wraps around the tip. It protects the stone and stops it from catching. A marquise set in ordinary prongs is a design mistake, and you can check this from a photo.

The point catches. Knitted jumpers, scarves, coat linings, hair. A poorly set marquise snags on them. A well set one far less so, but it still sticks out more than a round brilliant.

It is not a shape for very busy hands. If you work with your hands, garden or climb, a marquise as an everyday ring is not the best choice. A bezel set round brilliant is a better one. We would rather say so.

Otherwise, care is standard: the enemies of a ring are covered in the 5 enemies of your gold jewellery.

The right length to width ratio

A marquise is judged first on its proportions. You divide the length by the width to get a ratio.

The most balanced range is between 1.85 and 2.10. This is where the shape is recognisable without being a caricature, and where the bow tie usually stays contained.

Below 1.75, the stone becomes rounder. It loses its character and starts to look like a poorly proportioned oval.

Above 2.20, it stretches out a lot. It becomes spectacular, but the points get even finer and the bow tie effect tends to become stronger.

A second, lesser known criterion: symmetry. On a marquise, the slightest mismatch between the two halves is visible to the naked eye, far more than on a round shape. The two points must be perfectly aligned on the axis. A slight skew and the stone looks crooked once set, whatever you do.

Which hand and which use it suits

To put it frankly:

The marquise works very well on short or wide fingers, which it lengthens. It works well if you want the largest visible surface for your budget. And it works well if you want a ring that gets noticed without being imposing.

The marquise works less well on fingers that are already very long and slender, which it can over-lengthen. It works less well for a very busy hand, because of the points. And it works less well if you hate adjusting your ring: a marquise that spins is noticed immediately, whereas a round brilliant that spins is not.

That last point is worth stressing. A marquise has to stay aligned with the finger. That requires a well fitted ring, neither tight nor loose. Our guide on how to find your ring size deals with exactly this question.

Ring, earrings, necklace or bracelet

A marquise does not behave the same way depending on where you wear it. It is a nuance missing from most guides, which all focus on the engagement ring.

As a ring. The classic placement is along the finger, for the lengthening effect. There is also an east west placement, more contemporary, which gives a stone that visually spans the full width of the finger. Both have their merits; they simply say different things.

As earrings. This is the best use of the shape, and the most underrated. No risk of knocks, no risk of constant snagging. The point draws the eye up towards the face. A marquise on the ear makes more impact than a round brilliant of the same weight.

As a necklace. Worn point down, it lengthens the neck in the same way it lengthens the finger. It is the most understated way to wear such a striking shape.

As a bracelet. Lined up one after another, several marquises create a continuous line that round shapes cannot. It is the only place where the shape works as a series rather than as a solitaire.

Key takeaways

The marquise offers the best ratio of visible surface to weight of all the common cuts. That is its real selling point, and it can be measured.

It has two weak points. The bow tie effect, which no certificate mentions and which you have to see with your own eyes. And its two points, which require V prongs and a little care day to day.

Aim for a ratio between 1.85 and 2.10, and check the symmetry of the two halves before anything else.

And if a ring worries you, remember that this shape is at its best on the ear, where it is at no risk. It is the easiest way into this cut.

All our marquise stones are IGI certified lab-grown diamonds. For exactly what that means, see what is a lab-grown diamond.

FAQ

What is a marquise cut diamond?

It is an elongated diamond ending in two symmetrical points, usually cut with 58 facets like a round brilliant. It is the only shape with two points, which makes it recognisable at a glance.

What is the difference between marquise and navette?

None, they are two names for the same cut. Navette is the original French term, from its resemblance to a weaver's shuttle. Marquise has become the everyday term, including in France.

What is the bow tie effect on a marquise?

It is a dark band running across the centre of the stone. It comes from the elongated geometry: the pavilion is shallow in the centre, light escapes there and the stone reflects the shadow of the viewer. All elongated cuts show it, to varying degrees.

Is a marquise diamond fragile?

The stone is as hard as any diamond, 10 on the Mohs scale. But its two points concentrate knocks and can chip. That is why they must be set with V prongs that cap them.

What is the right ratio for a marquise diamond?

Between 1.85 and 2.10, length divided by width. Below 1.75 the stone becomes rounder and loses its character. Above 2.20 it stretches out, the points get finer and the bow tie effect becomes stronger.

Does a marquise look bigger than a round brilliant?

Yes, for the same weight. An elongated stone spreads its mass across its surface rather than into its depth, which gives a much larger visible surface for the same number of carats.

How should you wear a marquise ring, along the finger or east west?

Along the finger for the lengthening effect, which is the classic placement. East west for a more contemporary look, with the stone spanning the full width of the finger. Both are right; they simply create a different look.

Is the marquise cut suitable for earrings?

It is actually its best use. On the ear, the stone takes no knocks or rubbing, so the weak spot of the points disappears. And the shape draws the eye up towards the face.

Fiona