Buying guide: how to buy gold wisely

 

Gold, discovered more than 5,000 years ago, has always been more than a simple metal. It is deeply rooted in human history, marking entire eras and civilizations through its rarity, brilliance, and malleability. Here is an overview of the major periods and the significance of gold over time:

1. Prehistoric origins: the first gold adornments

The use of gold dates back to the Neolithic period (around 4,000 BC), when the first settled civilizations began to work this gleaming metal. The earliest adornments discovered, notably in Bulgaria at the Varna necropolis, reveal that gold was already used to signify high social status. It was valued not only for its beauty, but also for its rarity, which made it a symbol of power.

2. Antiquity: gold as a symbol of royalty and divinity

During Antiquity, gold took on an even more sacred dimension.

     • Ancient Egypt: The Egyptians regarded gold as the flesh of the gods, particularly the sun god Ra. Gold adorned the pharaohs’ tombs, such as the famous funerary mask of Tutankhamun, and symbolized eternity. Goldsmithing techniques became more refined during this period, enabling the creation of intricate jewelry and ritual objects.

     • Mesopotamia and Persia: Gold was a symbol of wealth and authority. Mesopotamian kings and Persian emperors used it to adorn their palaces and treasuries, often to demonstrate their supremacy.

     • Greece and Rome: Among the Greeks and Romans, gold was associated with luxury and military glory. Gold crowns symbolized victory, while gold coinage served as tangible proof of economic and political power.

3. The Middle Ages: gold and the Church

During the Middle Ages, gold became a spiritual and religious symbol.

     • The Christian Church: Gold was used to create chalices, crosses, and other liturgical objects, symbolizing divine purity and the light of God.

     • Medieval kingdoms: Monarchs’ gold crowns represented their divine right to rule. Gold was also amassed as treasure and used to seal alliances between kingdoms. 

4. The great discoveries and the colonial era: the quest for gold 

With the Age of Exploration (15th–17th centuries), gold took on a new meaning: that of global wealth.

     • The rush to the Americas: Spanish conquistadors plundered the treasures of the Aztec and Inca civilizations, bringing enormous quantities of gold back to Europe.

     • Gold as a universal currency: Gold coins became an economic standard, reinforcing its role as a universal store of value. 

5. Gold in the modern world: between investment and heritage

Today, gold is seen both as a symbol of luxury, a financial safe haven, and a cultural legacy.

     • Contemporary jewelry: Gold remains the cornerstone of fine jewelry, notably in 18-karat gold, which combines brilliance and durability.

     • Economic value: Gold is a safe investment in times of economic uncertainty, a timeless safe-haven asset.

     • Recyclability and ethics: With growing environmental concerns, gold is now recognized for its ability to be recycled indefinitely, meeting today’s sustainability requirements. 

The evolution of gold extraction: from ancestral techniques to modern methods

The first extraction techniques: time-honored expertise 

Gold extraction dates back thousands of years, and the earliest methods were simple but labor-intensive.

     • Crushing and washing: In the earliest civilizations, notably in Egypt and Mesopotamia, gold was extracted by hand from river alluvial deposits. Miners used rudimentary tools to crush gold-bearing rock, then washed the ore in waterways. This process separated the heavier gold particles from sand and gravel.

     • Heating the ore: Once the gold was collected, it was often heated to separate it from remaining impurities. This technique, though primitive, enabled civilizations such as the Egyptians to produce remarkably sophisticated objects in pure gold. 

These methods, while environmentally friendly due to their low impact, were limited in terms of yield, extracting only a tiny fraction of the gold present in the ore.

The industrial era: a revolution in gold extraction 

With the advent of the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century, new technologies radically transformed gold extraction. These advances were driven by increased demand for gold, fueled by gold rushes in California, Australia, and South Africa.

     • Amalgamation method: Gold extracted from ores was mixed with mercury, forming an amalgam. This was then heated to vaporize the mercury, leaving pure gold. Although highly effective, this method had disastrous consequences for the environment and human health due to toxic mercury vapors.

     • Cyanide process (1887): Developed by John MacArthur, this chemical process dissolves gold in a cyanide solution, enabling the recovery of up to 90% of the gold contained in the ore. Still widely used today, it is effective for low-grade ores, but raises serious environmental concerns, notably due to the risk of contaminating soils and waterways.

Modern extraction: between technology and sustainability

Today, gold extraction relies on advanced techniques designed to maximize efficiency while reducing environmental impact.

     • Open-pit and underground mines: These methods involve digging vast pits or tunnels to extract gold-bearing ore, which is then chemically processed to recover the gold.

     • Bioleaching: A more environmentally responsible alternative to cyanide, this process uses bacteria to dissolve the gold contained in the ore. Although promising, this method is still not widely used.

     • Gold recycling: With around 200,000 tonnes of gold already extracted since the beginning of human history, a large share is still in circulation. Gold recycling—particularly from vintage jewelry or electronic components—is a growing, sustainable trend.

Ethical and environmental challenges

Despite technological advances, gold extraction remains an industry with significant impacts:

     • Deforestation and biodiversity loss: Mining operations destroy local ecosystems, particularly in tropical regions.

     • Soil and water pollution: Chemical processes, such as cyanide leaching, often contaminate groundwater and rivers.

     •           Precarious working conditions: In some regions, artisanal gold mining takes place in dangerous conditions, often without respect for human rights.

That is why more and more brands, such as Lauredi, are committing to using recycled gold or gold from ethical sources, RJC-certified.

A precious material, a sustainable future

The history of gold extraction has been shaped by major developments, from manual methods to complex technologies. Today, while demand for gold remains strong, the future of this precious metal depends on sustainable and responsible practices, ensuring that its timeless beauty does not cause irreversible harm to our planet. 

18-carat gold: an ideal choice for jewelry

In jewelry, pure gold (24 carats) is often alloyed with other metals to improve its strength. 18-carat gold, containing 75% pure gold, offers a perfect balance of purity, durability, and brilliance, making it a preferred choice for fine jewelry.

Gold: a metal that can be recycled endlessly

One of gold’s remarkable qualities is its ability to be recycled without any loss of quality. Around 88% of the gold extracted from the earth has been mined since 1848, and a large share of that gold is still in circulation today, reflecting its durability and enduring value. 

What does the amount of gold mean in a piece of jewelry?

Gold is rarely used in its pure form (24 carats) for jewelry making, as it is too soft and deforms too easily to create durable pieces. To ensure strength and longevity, it is combined with other metals to form alloys. The amount of pure gold contained in a piece of jewelry is measured in carats, a key criterion for its quality, appearance, and value.

Understanding carats: measuring purity

Caratage refers to the proportion of pure gold in an alloy, expressed in parts out of 24. The higher the caratage, the purer and more valuable the gold. Here are the main categories used in jewelry:

     •           24 carats (100% pure gold):

This gold, known for its rich, vibrant color, is too malleable to be used in jewelry intended for everyday wear. However, it is widely favored in certain regions, notably in India and the Middle East, where 24-carat gold is a symbol of wealth and purity. 24-carat gold jewelry is often worn for ceremonies or kept as an investment.

     •           18 carats (75% pure gold):

18-carat gold is the benchmark standard in high-end jewelry, particularly in Europe and the Americas. With 75% pure gold blended with silver and copper (for the remaining 25%), it offers an ideal balance between purity and strength. Its radiant hue and durability make it a popular choice for engagement rings, wedding bands, and other precious jewelry.

     •           14 karats (58.3% pure gold):

This alloy is less valuable and less brilliant than 18-karat gold, but it is more resistant to wear. 14-karat gold is often used for affordable jewelry and designs requiring greater durability, such as bracelets.

     •           9 karats (37.5% pure gold):

9-karat gold contains a low proportion of pure gold, making it less valuable and more prone to oxidation. While popular in certain markets, notably the United Kingdom, it is considered an economical option rather than a luxury choice. It is often the alloy of choice for private-sale sites or low-cost jewelry. With 37.5% gold, 9-karat jewelry often does not offer the same level of quality as 18-karat pieces.

Metals in gold alloys: their role and impact

To turn pure gold into an alloy suitable for jewelry-making, metals such as copper, silver, palladium, or nickel are added. These metals influence not only the alloy’s strength, but also its color and appearance:

     •           Copper:

It reinforces gold’s strength and gives it a warmer, even reddish tone. Rose gold, for example, is obtained by increasing the proportion of copper in the alloy. It is a popular choice for its softness and romantic look.

     •           Silver:

When added to gold, silver gives it a lighter, brighter tone. When used in large amounts with a small proportion of copper, it produces classic yellow gold. Silver also helps improve the alloy’s malleability.

     •           Palladium and platinum:

These metals are used to create white gold. In addition to imparting a silvery tone, they significantly increase the alloy’s strength. An additional rhodium plating is often applied to enhance the brilliance of white gold.

     •           Nickel:

Although less used today due to frequent allergies, nickel was long a component of white gold. It contributes to its durability and pale hue.

Diagram of the impact of alloying on gold color

 

Geographic variations and cultural preferences 

Preferences for gold karatage and color vary considerably around the world:

     •           In India, 24-karat gold is a symbolic and traditional choice, often worn as a sign of status and opulence at weddings and festivals.

     •           In Europe, 18-karat gold is widely favored for luxury jewelry, reflecting a preference for elegance and quality.

     •           In North America, 14-karat gold is common for everyday jewelry, offering an economical and durable solution.

     •           In the Middle East, high-carat yellow gold (22 or 24) is highly prized for its purity and cultural value. 

The impact of the amount of gold in a ring

The amount of gold in a ring affects both its appearance and its longevity. A high-quality piece, such as an 18-carat gold ring, ensures an optimal balance of brilliance, strength, and durability. Gold alloys, carefully formulated with complementary metals, make it possible to create a variety of designs while meeting cultural and aesthetic preferences.

Choosing a well-crafted gold ring, with a suitable proportion of pure gold and alloy, is a sound investment—both for its timeless brilliance and its ability to be passed down through generations.

Gold guarantee hallmarks: in France and abroad

In jewelry, hallmarks are marks applied to pieces to indicate their fineness (gold purity) and guarantee authenticity. Here is a summary of the hallmarks used in France and in certain other countries for the different gold fineness levels:

French guarantee hallmarks:

 In France, gold jewelry is subject to strict standards and must be hallmarked to certify its purity. Here are the official hallmarks associated with the main fineness levels:

     •           24-carat gold (999‰):

             •   Hallmark: A “seahorse”.

             •   Use: Rare in jewelry, mainly for bullion and investment coins.

     •           22-carat gold (916‰):

             •   Hallmark: A “crown”.

             •   Use: Uncommon in France, but used for very high-purity jewelry, often imported.

     •           18-carat gold (750‰):

             •   Hallmark: An “eagle’s head”.

             •   Use: The standard in high-end French fine jewelry, valued for its balance of brilliance and strength.

     •           14-carat gold (585‰):

             •   Hallmark: A “scallop shell”.

             •   Use: Used for more affordable jewelry or imported pieces.

     • 9-carat gold (375 thousandths):

             • Hallmark: A “clover”.

             • Use: Common in entry-level jewelry, although less sought-after in France.

 

French hallmarks

 

International guarantee hallmarks:

Hallmarks vary from one country to another, but most nations apply a mark to indicate the purity of gold. Here are the standards in some key markets:

     • Switzerland:

             • 18-carat gold: A “squirrel”.

             • 14-carat gold: A “St. Mark’s horse”.

     • United Kingdom:

The United Kingdom uses a complex system with multiple symbols combining fineness, the assay location, and the year.

             • 18-carat gold: “750” + an assay-office-specific mark (e.g., a leopard for London).

             • 9-carat gold: “375” + assay office mark.

     • United States:

Jewelry bears a simple numeric inscription indicating the fineness (e.g., “18K” or “14K”). No official graphic hallmark is required.

     • India and the Middle East:

             • 22-carat gold: Very common, often marked “916”.

             • 24-carat gold: Used for high-value jewelry, often stamped “999”.

 

Why are hallmarks important?

Hallmarks are essential to protect consumers and ensure transparency about jewelry quality. They help distinguish authentic pieces from imitations or lower-grade alloys. When purchasing a piece of jewelry, checking the hallmark is an indispensable step to confirm its value and authenticity.

At Lauredi, all our jewelry is hallmarked with an eagle’s head, guaranteeing an 18-carat composition. Hallmarking is carried out under the supervision of French Customs, ensuring the quality of the gold.

The importance of the amount of gold in grams

Beyond caratage, the amount of gold in grams and the thickness of the ring’s structure play a crucial role in its strength, durability, and ability to keep gemstones securely in place.

Amount of gold in grams: critical thresholds 

A ring containing less than 1 gram of gold is generally considered too thin for everyday wear. Here are the implications by weight:

     •           Less than 1 gram:

             •   Extreme fragility.

             •   High risk of deformation under daily pressure, particularly if the ring is worn continuously.

             •   Set stones, especially diamonds, may come loose if the ring twists.

     •           Between 1 and 1.5 grams:

             •   Sufficient for simple, fine rings (without gemstones).

             •   May be suitable for jewelry worn occasionally, but remains vulnerable to prolonged wear.

     •           More than 1.5 grams:

             •   Recommended for rings with gemstones or for everyday wear.

             •   Offering better impact resistance and enhanced security for stone setting.

At Lauredi, we ensure that each ring is crafted with more than 1.5 grams of gold—often over 2 grams—to provide optimal durability and ensure the piece can stand the test of time without losing its shape or breaking.

For example, the Loop ring is made with 4.3 grams of 18-carat gold.

Some jewelers today choose to reduce the amount of gold in their piece to lower the price. However, this approach is not relevant in the long run: beyond very small pieces, it leads to fragile jewelry that can lose its stones.

Structure thickness: a key criterion

The thickness of gold in a ring is just as important as its total weight. A ring that is too thin can bend easily or have its settings loosen. Here are the recommendations for minimum thickness:

     • Thickness below 1 mm:

             • Too fragile for everyday wear.

             • Suitable only for decorative designs or rings intended to be worn occasionally.

     • Between 1 mm and 1.5 mm:

             • Suitable for clean designs without gemstones.

             • Can withstand moderate wear, but remains more vulnerable to deformation if subjected to significant pressure.

     • More than 1.5 mm:

             • Recommended for rings set with gemstones and for robust creations.

             • Optimal thickness for comfort, gemstone security, and durability.

 

Quality at Lauredi: a perfect balance

 At Lauredi, we adhere to strict standards to ensure our rings are strong and durable:

     • Minimum weight: All our rings contain at least 2 grams of gold, even in slender designs, ensuring a robust structure.

     • Optimal thickness: Our rings have a minimum thickness of 1.2 mm, ensuring excellent everyday resistance and optimal security for gemstones.

This attention to detail makes every Lauredi jewel a timeless piece, designed to be passed down through generations while retaining its beauty and strength.

Gold: a secure investment and a noble material for unique jewelry

For millennia, gold has been regarded as a symbol of wealth and power, as well as a stable, timeless investment. Its safe-haven status has strengthened in recent years amid global economic uncertainty. This precious metal also has a unique characteristic: it can be recycled endlessly without ever losing its qualities. At Lauredi, we turn this exceptional property of gold into an opportunity for our clients by creating bespoke jewelry that combines heritage, sustainability, and personalized design.

A precious metal with rising value

Since 2021, gold prices have risen sharply, underscoring its strength as an investment:

     • 2021: An increase of 4.3%, marking the fourth consecutive year of growth.

     •           2022-2024: A cumulative increase of more than 27%, reaching record highs.

     •           2025: Forecasts remain bullish, confirming that gold continues to be a store of value amid economic fluctuations.

These figures highlight gold’s role as a secure investment in a context of global crises and financial market instability.

Opportunities for consumers: jewelry and investment

 The rise in the price of gold offers several attractive opportunities for individuals:

     •           Advantageous resale:

Those who own unused gold jewelry can take advantage of current valuations to resell it at high prices, turning forgotten pieces into cash.

     •           Bespoke jewelry creation with Lauredi:

Thanks to gold’s unique property—being recyclable endlessly without any loss of quality—Lauredi offers an exclusive transformation service. Your vintage or inherited jewelry can be melted down and reimagined into unique, bespoke creations tailored to your tastes.

We use only recycled or ethically sourced 18-carat gold, ensuring each piece has a reduced environmental impact and exceptional quality. Our designers work with you to imagine a jewel that tells your story and can be passed down through generations. Book an appointment for a complimentary consultation 

     •           Sustainable investment:

Purchasing 18-carat gold jewelry is both an aesthetic pleasure and a tangible investment. By choosing a Lauredi ring or jewel, you are investing in a fine jewelry piece whose intrinsic value is expected to hold—if not increase—over time.

Why choose Lauredi for your gold jewelry?

At Lauredi, we combine French artisanal expertise, ethics, and personalization to offer our clients far more than simple jewelry: works of art designed to last. Every gold piece we create is a fusion of tradition and innovation, conceived to unite beauty, durability, and personal meaning.

Conclusion: Gold, an informed and timeless choice

Whether you are looking to invest, transform antique jewelry, or create a bespoke piece, gold is the ultimate material. Its rising value and its ability to be recycled endlessly make it a wise, environmentally responsible choice. With Lauredi, give this precious metal a new life and treat yourself to a unique, timeless jewel rich in meaning. 

Discover our collections and our bespoke services to transform gold into a personal legacy.